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WITH WELDER IN HAND DID TUBES OF UPGRADED 12 BOLT (DOUBLE FIX!)
STILL HAVE TWISTED 10 BOLT MABY WE CAN GET CAMO TO BRING HIS ANGLE THINGY TO ATCO FER A REDNECK REAREND CLASS!
go to my page jerry for great pic's of my rearend.................ahhh wait a min. that didn't sound right.......anya way i have great pic's of wrong pinion angle and why you should weld the tubes to center section (last years 1320x @ lebanon track was good and sticky!!
Ah yes...Watson guides. Good bunch of guys from the Nova list! I could bury him in pinion angle info..... The redneck is right Jerry. Check and adjust as nessesary. Make gobs of difference in getting out of the hole etc. Not to mention less driveline fatigue. Even the Yoo Hoo Corn jumper takes advantage of pinion angle adjustment, silly rabbit.
Pinion angle is important due to the forces at work in the rearend and rear suspension of a rear-wheel-drive vehicle. As power is applied to the rearend via the driveshaft, the pinion gear tries to climb the ring gear. This causes the rearend housing (along with the pinion gear) to rotate about the axles' centerline. The optimum relationship between the pinion gear and driveshaft is when they are perfectly aligned. In order to achieve this under power, you much have some angle built into the setup when the vehicle is at rest and not under any power.
The typical leaf spring rear suspension will need 5-7 degrees of negative angle. A ladder bar or 4-link setup is much more rigid and therefore usually only needs 1-3 degrees. You never want the the rearend setup with positive pinion angle. This is when the yoke of the rearend is tilted upward more than the driveshaft. This can lead to binding of the u-joints and will hurt traction (the real reason we race enthusiasts are concerned about this).
To check the pinion angle, the vehicle needs to be sitting with its weight on the tires, as it would be normally. For the best accuracy, place weight in the driver's seat to simulate the driver. An angle finder can be bought from places such as Sears and Home Depot for under $10. Begin by measuring the angle of the driveshaft and writing it down. Then remove the driveshaft from the yoke (no need to totally remove it and spin tranny fluid everywhere) and place the angle finder on the end of the yoke. The angle from vertical will be equal to the angle of the centerline of the pinion gear to the horizontal. If the driveshaft was angled upward (it would be rare to find one that isn't) and the rearend is nose down (not always the case, so be sure you know which way its positioned), just add together the two angles you measured. For instance, if the driveshaft is 2 degrees up from level and the pinion gear is 3 degrees nose down, then you have 5 degrees of pinion angle. If the rearend is nose up and its angle is less than the angle of the driveshaft, subtract the rearend angle from the driveshaft angle. If the angle of the rearend is steeper than that of the driveshaft, subtract the angle of the driveshaft from that of the rearend to see how much positive pinion angle you have. For example, if you have a rearend angle of 5 degrees from vertical nose up and the driveshaft is angled up at 3 degrees, you have 2 degrees of positive pinion angle. If this was a leaf spring car, you'd need to change the angle by 7 degrees to get 5 degrees of negative pinion angle.
If the rearend is so close to level that you can't tell if its nose up or nose down, put the angle finder on the yoke and then see which direction you have to rotate the finder to make it read zero (or 90 depending on how the angle finder is made). When viewed from the passenger side, if you have to rotate it counterclockwise, the rearend is nose down.
Now that you know the pinion angle, you may have to change it. On a leaf spring car, this is done with wedges between the rearend and the springs. Speed shops and sometimes alignment shops keep these around. If you can't find them locally, Summit and Jegs carry them. If you have a factory 4-link car, you'll need some adjustable control arms or revised control arm mounts. Aftermarket ladder bar and 4-link cars are adjusted via the Heim joints.
How about I peel off some bills for that Nova??? Hey...stop by the CamoCave. Me and Shank are throwing a party here on the Fourth!! BYOB........bring your own beotches............ Camo supplied the beer unknowingly.............
You will not taunt me with your flawless, vintage, pristine, showroom condition Nova Interior pic......... I will not let it get to me.............you suck..........go away.........and leave the Nova with me!